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Saturday, April 21, 2007
~ 8:37 AM ~
*Namaste* (hello in nepalese). I know a lot of you have heard me tell the Everest Base Camp story a few times, and some haven't so I'll just do the big mandatory post and that should do it :p hehe

Anyways, I got back on Tuesday evening only to have to go back to work on the Wednesday. Not recommended after 3 weeks away. So I haven't had much of a chance to do anything with my photos etc and I've got an assignment due yesterday which I need to work on and hand in Monday, so it's been a tough little transition back to Perth life. Anyways, I'm not going to be able to cover the entire trip detail as one blog post won't do it justice, but here are some snippets.

So, how was the trip?

Kathmandu

The journey itself started in Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal, where Bryan and I had two extra days up our sleeves before the start of the journey. Kathmandu, and in particular, Thamel, is a chaotic, dirty, poor city with lots of beggars and absolutely no road rules.

[ Not happy in Kathmandu!!]

Having reached Kathmandu after coming from Bangkok, I was sent into culture shock overdrive. My first day, Bryan looked at me concerned and asked "Are you ok?" after he noticed me clutching onto the chair in our dodgy hotel room with clammy hands. However, after walking around a bit and after the beggars went to sleep, Kathmandu opened up and I actually enjoyed it (it's sort of like walking through the Parsamalam in Malaysia where people hassle you x 10).


While I started to enjoy Kathmandu, I was really only there to see the Himalayan mountain ranges, and so was extremely happy to be leaving the city and to start our journey to Base Camp.

Journey to Everest Base Camp

Base camp for those that don't know is the camp at which the Mt Everest Summiters (those that climb to the very top) set up and live for 3-4 weeks to acclimatize to the high altitude and thin air prior to climbing to the very top. Base Camp is situated at about 5400m metres (18000 feet) altitude, while the summit of Everest is approximately 8850 metres.

[ Everest Base Camp ]



[ The group on our way up ]

[ Ram (Guide Leader) and Me ]

At lower levels, the trek isn't so bad - just lots of walking done in warm temperatures, and up till Namche, there are facilities such as hot showers in the teahouses that we stayed in (although you do have to pay for them). At higher altitudes, and certainly from Phortse onwards, the facilities dry up and with it, any resemblance of a hygienic self.


[ We made it to Base Camp!!! Smiles on our face hide our sheer exhaustion. A few people are missing from the photo because while they made it, they were quite affected by Altitude Sickness, and had to descend to avoid getting worse]

We went for about 10 days without showers, using wet wipes to clean ourselves the best we could, but even then the grime and the dirt built up and no doubt, caused some people to get rather sick.

The food was repetitive everywhere we went, with garlic soup, sherpa stew, fried eggs and dal bhat being the norm. However, as we got higher up, we started to lose our appetites (a side effect of high altitude) and started eating only for the sake of eating. Besides that, each of us were armed with a high supply of chocolates and peanuts as they are high energy foods. In conditions where we were using thousands of kilojoules each day and not having much appetite, the chocolates were definitely a salvation.

[ Kae and Eva . The poor girl was sick almost every day yet she still made it !! ]

Did people get sick? Everyone was sick at some point in the journey. For me, it was battling the cold and developing a cold/flu rather than altitude itself. Bryan got a few symptoms of Altitude Sickness early on but was pretty good for the best part. There were people who were consantly nauseous or vomiting, those with bad food poisoning, and there was one guy who passed out twice and his heart stopped one time.

I was also susceptible to getting frostbite due to my low blood pressure and poor circulation, and on our way up to Gorak Shep walking through the snow, I almost did get it. 4 pairs of gloves, and one or two persons warming each of my hands managed to just save me. On the way up however, we did meet the Korean Expedition team whose leader had lost all fingers due to frostbite. Amazing feat if he does manage to climb to the summit!!

I think one of the best parts of my trip is the group of people that came with it. We came from all walks of life, and from all parts of the world. There were doctors, there were lawyers, accountants, but what worked well was that everyone got along and were so considerate and generous with each other. Mike really looked after me that almost-frostbite day and made sure I was sufficiently warm with my three beanies and 4 gloves, Drs John and Eva (even though they were sick themselves) made sure everyone else was okay by taking their temperatures and pulses and taking care of Adam when he passed out, Silvi was always there to vomit with you or to give you hugs if you weren't feeling well, and Team Omar showed that perserverance gets you there. I dont think this trip would've been what it was if the weren't there.

[ The Boys celebrating with a beer]

Afterthoughts

They say a trip like this doesn't leave you unchanged, and I agree. I think having roughed it for three weeks and being privy to the way the Nepalese people live (and in particular, the mountain people), it really has made me appreciate everything I've got and am able to do.

For the Nepalese, they aren't even allowed to holiday in another country without a sponsor. Privileges like freedom of movement are something that we take for granted. But seeing Deepak (an assistant guide) get really depressed over his life and wanting to visit other countries really opens your eyes.

I'm really glad that I did this trip, but in all honesty, I dont think I'd do it again (although, I would definitely still be interested in doing Annapurna Circuit or other treks, just not EBC again). It's one of those things that I'm proud to say i've done but for a myriad of factors of factors, am okay with putting it in the "been there done that, wont repeat" pile.

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Supa Dupa Girl-Kae is the eldest of three kae's and is therefore the supa dupa one of the lot (as given to me by Alvin). Currently residing in Perth, WA, Girl-Kae is a happy go lucky bubbly girl, who loves to shop, eat, and sleep. When she's not working, she can be found at home being a homebody, glued to the screen watching enormous amounts of drama series, out eating icecreams and cakes, and shopping till her heart's content.
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